Ingredient Library

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Acid

  • Category: Exfoliant, pH adjuster/stabilizer
  • Details: Anything with a pH lower than 7 is considered acidic; above 7 and it is considered Alkaline. Water has a pH of 7 and the human skin has a pH of 5.5

Acacia Senegal Gum

  • INCI: Acacia Senegal Gum (Gum Arabic)
  • Rating: Good
  • Origin: Plant, a >99% pure, well-defined compound Plant, >99% pure well-defined compound
  • Category: Texture Enhancer, Emulsifier
  • Benefits: Soothing
  • Details: Acacia Senegal gum is a natural polymer that is harvested from the Acacia tree in Sub-Saharan Africa. This herb is used in various capacities to enhance the smooth feel or adhesion of a skin care formula; i.e, it functions as a thickening and binding agent, emulsifier, or stabilizer. Often coupled with Xanthan Gum to help reduce its unpleasant stickiness. Research shows it can deliver skin-soothing properties.

Acetyl Glucosamine

  • INCI: Acetyl Glucosamine
  • Rating: Best Plant, >99% pure well-defined compound
  • Category: Antioxidant, Humectant, Anti-Aging
  • Benefits: Skin-identical, Skin Brightening, Soothing, Hydration
  • Details: Acetyl Glucosamine or N-Acetyl Glucosamine is an amino acid sugar and skin replenishing ingredient that helps to reduce signs of aging, a multipurpose antioxidant that plays a role in fading skin discolorations (in the 2% - 5% concentration, especially when paired with Niacinamide), also known to offer skin-calming properties, and acts as a precursor to hyaluronic acid, helping the skin to make its own hyaluronic acid naturally - a fundamental component responsible for helping skin maintain its elasticity and keep its dewy, hydrated look.

Acetyl Glucosamine can be produced synthetically so as to be vegan, as opposed to the pure acetyl glucosamine that is typically derived from shellfish. Its derivative form known as N-Acetyl Glucosamine is considered more stable and effective. And combined with skincare superstar niacinamide, the duo is synergistic and more effective at improving hyperpigmentation, so if you are after the pigmentation control benefit, look out for products that contain both.

Another way Acetyl Glucosamine can improve the sign of aging skin is through exfoliation. This multipurpose ingredient provides exfoliation benefits in the same way that Alpha and Beta Hydroxy acids work, without any of the irritation. This means it is an ingredient that could be beneficial for those with sensitive skin since exfoliation with acids can lead to irritation, redness, and photosensitivity.

  • Is Acetyl Glucosamine Safe? There is limited data available on the safety of acetyl glucosamine as used in cosmetics and personal care products. But according to EWG’s Skin Deep Database, acetyl glucosamine is rated as a 1 on a scale of 1 to 10, with 1 being the lowest risk to health and 10 being the highest.
  • Who is it for? All skin types except those that have an identified allergy to it

Aloe Vera

  • INCI: Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract (Aloe Leaf Extract)
  • Rating: Good
  • Origin: Plant, a >99% pure, well-defined compound Plant, >99% pure well-defined compound
  • Category: Humectant, Moisturizer, Emollient
  • Benefits: Soothing
  • Details: Acacia Senegal gum is a natural polymer that is harvested from the Acacia tree in Sub-Saharan Africa. This herb is used in various capacities to enhance the smooth feel or adhesion of a skin care formula; i.e, it functions as a thickening and binding agent, emulsifier, or stabilizer. Often coupled with Xanthan Gum to help reduce its unpleasant stickiness. Research shows it can deliver skin-soothing properties.

Bakuchiol

  • INCI: Bakuchiol (Sytenol A or Phyto Retinol)
  • Rating: Best
  • Origin: Plant, a >99% pure, well-defined compound Plant, >99% pure well-defined compound
  • Category: cell-communicating ingredient, antioxidant, antibacterial/antimicrobial
  • Benefits: Anti-Aging, Anti-Acne, Evens Skin Tone, Soothing
  • Details: derived from the seeds of Psoralea Corylifolia aka Babchi, an important plant in Indian Ayurvedic medicine and Chinese natural medicine, Bakuchiol is not your average plant extract, and neither is it to be confused with the Babchi seed oil. 

While not a direct replacement for Vitamin A-family aka Retinoids, comparative gene expression profiling shows that bakuchiol and retinol regulate skin cell behavior in a similar way, minus the sensitizing effect a lot of people experience with retinol.

A 12-week clinical study using 0.5% bakuchiol formula with 17 people using it twice a day showed a significant skin-restoring ability, an improvement in lines and wrinkles, and a brightening effect on skin. Similar results were observed when a double-blind study in 2018 with 44 people compared 0.5% Bakuchiol to 0.5% retinol cream, and found bakuchiol is comparable to retinol in its ability to improve photoaging, but with a better skin tolerance.

Research has confirmed that bakuchiol works best in concentrations between 0.5 to 1%.

Mandelic Acid - Increase in cell turnover, anti-acne, anti-aging

Niacinamide

Psoralea Corylifolia

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Xanthan Gum

  • INCI: Xanthan Gum
  • Rating: Good
  • Origin: Plant, a >99% pure, well-defined compound Plant, >99% pure well-defined compound
  • Category: Texture Enhancer, Viscosity Control, Emulsifier, pH Adjuster/Stabilizer
  • Benefits: Soothing
  • Details: All natural polysaccharide that is produced from the fermentation of simple sugars, xanthan gum is used in skin care as a thickening agent, texture enhancer and emulsion stabilizer. It is approved by Ecocert and also used in the food industry.